Deep in Dracula’s Domain, History Gets…

I had made multiple trips to Romania previously but had deliberately avoided doing the touristy stuff. Like everyone who doesn’t hesitate to move out of their comfort zone and explore the world, I also began as a regular tourist. It’s a matter of time before I shrugged off the tag and assumed the mantle of a seasoned traveler.

To be honest, only a select few make this transition successfully. Fortunately, in my case it was an increasingly smooth affair. In hindsight, I have come to believe from the outset I lacked the mentality to be a regular tourist. Traveling on a shoestring budget was never really the intent, nor was I keen to enroll in group tours.

While I have been to quite a few places that are extremely popular among tourists, I have never really indulged in doing the typically touristy stuff. For instance, having visited Paris on multiple occasions, I am yet to pose in front of the Eiffel Tower. How many people do you know who haven’t got themselves photographed with this iconic monument in the background?

Likewise, during my previous visits to Romania, I explored the country based on suggestions made by my friends who were natives and consciously avoided the places popular among tourists. My most recent trip was a significant departure from the norm, though. Considering it was an elaborate affair, the inclusion of popular destinations couldn’t be avoided.

It won’t be an exaggeration to say there is nothing more popular about Romania than the legend of Dracula. This was the first instance that I actually made a conscious effort to indulge in Dracula tourism, visit some of the related locations and explore the historical references related to the medieval ruler.

Beginning with the book

Most of us have read Bram Stoker’s Dracula. Am I right? An epic work in the horror genre, it was released in 1897 and has ensured Romania will for posterity remain associated with a legend related to the medieval ruler. Vlad III, better known as Vlad Drăculea (Vlad Dracula) and the inspiration for Stoker’s fictional vampire, was born in the central European country’s historic region of Transylvania.

As such, most of the references related to him can be found in the central part of Romania. I stumbled upon an interesting one in the capital, though. In a quiet corner at the intersection of two of Bucharest’s streets, Cîmpineanu and Strada Știrbei Vodă, I spotted a mural that pays homage to the author and his legendary character.

At times referred to as Pictură murală masonică Bram Stoker și Dracula (literal translation: Masonic mural painting Bram Stoker and Dracula), this elaborate street art (photograph above) showcases Vlad Țepeș (or Vlad the Impaler) sharing a table with the Irish novelist.

Painted by the well-known street artist Obie Platon, this vivid portrayal that brings to life the gothic themes that permeate Stoker’s works served as an advertisement for a pub named after the novelist himself. Unfortunately, the Bram Stoker Pub went bankrupt after about seven years of existence. The mural, though, continues to attract tourists.

To be honest, this is the most interesting reference I came across during the entire exercise. The next destination was palpably at the heart of Dracula’s domain. I was all set for an elaborate exploration in Transylvania, with Brașov as my base. Not far from my accommodation was a restaurant in the legendary figure’s name.

No points for guessing the menu showcased inflated rates. The locals I spoke to weren’t too enthused to hear about my intended destination. These early signs were a clear indicator that looking for historical references related to Dracula can be a fairly strenuous activity and, bluntly put, an exercise in futility.

En route to Dracula’s Castle

Stoker’s Dracula, among other things, has also ensured that a castle that lies about 25 kilometers southwest of Brașov finds a mention on every tourist’s bucket list of places to visit. This castle has been accorded national monument status. No points for guessing either that Castelul Bran (or the Bran Castle) is marketed outside Romania as Dracula’s Castle.

In fact, the hordes of tourists who head to Bran every year are possibly disappointed to find that Castelul Bran offers little other than expensive Dracula merchandise. On the contrary, it is a museum dedicated to Queen Marie (1875–1938), the last queen of Romania, her husband Ferdinand I (1865–1927), and her other family members.

To be honest, as just another castle complex, Bran is as decent or underwhelming as any of the many historic castles scattered in and around Europe. However, as something associated with the legend of Dracula in particular, it is hugely disappointing. The photograph you see below sums up the commercialism that defines Bran.

There are people dressed up as Dracula, there is ample merchandise related to the medieval ruler, and, of course, there is a lot of convenience. Vlad Dracul spent a significant part of his life resisting the Ottomans, and the descendants of the latter have opened restaurants in Bran named after him, some right in front of the castle complex. Do you get the irony?

As we drove back to Brașov, my chauffeur was eager to know about my opinion regarding Bran. I couldn’t hide my disappointment. He was gracious enough to admit this tourist paradise can indeed be an underwhelming experience for someone looking for authentic references related to the legend.

In a historic old town stands…

The historic region of Transylvania hides another secret related to Vlad III, though. For that, I had to take to the Romanian countryside and travel 89 miles (142 kilometers) northwest of Bran. Taking to the Romanian countryside, I made my way to what is arguably a more interesting reference related to Vlad III.

Located in Centrul Istoric, or the historic old town of Sighișoara (pronounced See-ghee-Swar’ah), in what has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999, is the house where Vlad Dracul (or Vlad II) lived in exile. It is in this house that his second son, who later became famous as Vlad the Impaler, was born in 1431, as per the records.

Young Vlad also spent the first four years of his life in this house. As things stand, Camera lui Dracula, the room he was born in, has been converted into a museum. Besides, Casa lui Vlad Dracul is now a popular restaurant. If you remember, the same is the case with the Pied Piper’s house in Hameln. There is a nominal fee that you have to pay for the access. Is it worth it?

Well, not quite. While the curiosity factor ensures you head towards this makeshift arrangement, it comes across as an inferior version of the Amsterdam Dungeon and similar such intended spooky fests. The attempts to recreate a Gothic setting and evoke fear seem amateurish at best and childish at worst.

Across the house where he was born, in Piata Muzeului (museum square), lies a bust of Vlad Țepeș’ head (photograph below). On the pedestal on which this statue is placed is a plaque with details related to the medieval ruler and the inscription Domnitor al Țării Românești (Ruler of the Romanian country), highlighting his status. It is a reference, no doubt, but definitely not a must-see attraction.

Where commerce dwarfs history

Deep in Dracula’s domain, history gets conveniently sidelined by economics, and commercial considerations trump factual accuracy. A desire to draw maximum tourists into a make-believe setting negates the actual history related to the medieval ruler to a significant extent. To be honest, there is nothing wrong with it.

For a growing economy like Romania, anything that contributes significantly to tourism and the foreign exchange reserve is an asset. Needless to say, references related to the medieval ruler lead the way, attracting millions of tourists every year. I was so disappointed with the references I got to see that I deliberately avoided a few other suggestions.

Having said that, if you are content with what’s being showcased, you will have no reason to complain. However, for someone looking for an authentic experience and a little more insight pertaining to one of the most intriguing figures in history, it is definitely an underwhelming experience. Bluntly put, my attempts can be summed up as an exercise in futility.

Following years of resistance, I finally succumbed to the hypnotic lure of Dracula and have finished describing what has been a largely underwhelming experience. As such, my advice to those keen to undertake a similar trip is simple and straightforward: Keep your expectations low, and you won’t be entirely disappointed.